BAD has been open for two months without a listed phone number and is so hidden within a Bandra village, it necessitates the use of Google Maps. Are BAD’s founders, siblings Amit and Bhavna Dhanani, deliberately trying to keep customers away? They certainly aren’t, they assured us, but they sure have an unconventional approach to doing business. During lunch at the all-day 50-seater BAD Cafe last week, we got the answers to questions their strategy raises.
A multidisciplinary venue, BAD is a cafe, yoga studio and retail and events space. The name stands for Bringing A Difference; it’s not short for ‘badass’ as we had assumed. Nowhere on their social media handles is this explained. The lack of a phone number and signs leading to the three-storey Bandra establishment is to encourage “discovery”, said the BAD siblings. They’ve also remained under the radar and preferred to rely on word of mouth, they explained, to attract a select clientele that will make an effort to understand the BAD philosophy of indulging the soul (through the cafe), the body (via their yoga classes) and the mind (the third floor of the venue has a meditation room).
Friends who visited BAD before us used the word ‘hipster’ to describe it. Perhaps this is because the owners have so underplayed their enterprise, while most restaurants open to a marketing blitz. There is something undoubtedly hip about BAD – from its art installation-like undulating outer wall crafted with hand-designed PVC pipes to its minimalist interiors in stark black and white to the beach-appropriate staff uniforms of knee-length shorts and tees with rolled up sleeves. It could also also be that their specialty coffee menu, which lists pricey artisanal brews such as Turkish coffee (Rs250), hazelnut latte (Rs241) and bon bon (Rs241) prompt the hipster label.
That said, the cafe’s menu is a worthier talking point than its cultivated coolness. Bhavna is the resident yoga instructor and cafe manager while Amit is the reticent chef and barista. The duo hails from Malaga, which explains their largely Spanish menu of sopas, croquetas and tapas. While the decor has eschewed colour, the dishes embrace the whole spectrum. Amit Dhanani’s take on tapas is fresh, the flavours are notably clean and he plates the food beautifully. The portions alas are tiny.
The fresa (Rs286) is a single bruschetta elegantly elevated with a topping of sliced strawberry, kale pesto, homemade ricotta and a sliver of robust Manchego cheese. It’s the ideal meal opener and not surprisingly a bestseller. We were equally enthused by the pina y coco (Rs340), which we dubbed the edible pina colada. The salad is an unusual mix of pineapple chunks, dry roasted coconut slices, fresh coconut malai, rocket and lettuce massaged with a sweet and creamy coconut yoghurt and pineapple vinaigrette.
In keeping with their orientation towards healthful (albeit non-veg) food they’re aligned with The Yoga House, which is also in Bandra. However, by their own doing, BAD is a lot emptier than the latter, which is the stomping ground of the suburb’s many expats and models. BAD cafe’s stellar mushroom upma (Rs223), listed as an all-day breakfast dish, certainly deserves a crowd. While it’s not Spanish, the upma is a mood-lifting coupling of chilli and garlic flavoured mushrooms and upma cooked to congee consistency. The gambas pil pil (Rs403) had a measly five pieces of shrimp, but these were cooked to perfection. The mid-sized shrimp had sweetness and bite, while the puddle of olive oil infused with parsely and red chilli beneath it had soaked up its sea flavour. The cafe’s hummus platter (Rs520) made up of four buttery flavours – traditional chickpea; black-eyed pea (flavoured with almond, lime and garlic); burnt butter pistachio; and green mung (garnished with pico de gallo) – got a five-star rating from us for inventiveness and balance of flavours and consistency.
Skip the dry abuelita (Rs287), a bland savoury pancake made using carrots, cream cheese and salt-and chilli-rubbed apples, the last of which was the sole highlight of the breakfast item. We’ve eaten better flan de queso (Rs286) or cheese custard. Their version was runny and watery. It would be criminal, however, to pass on their bunuelos de aire (Rs286) – Spanish fritters made with milk, eggs and flour. Even if you’ve sworn off carbs, make an exception for these astoundingly light dough balls flavoured with orange and rolled in powdered Spanish chocolate and roasted almonds. You can alternatively settle for the Spanish bon bon (Rs241) as your sweet ending. The caffeine equivalent of a Bailey’s shot is a creamy blend of condensed milk and espresso served in a cutting chai glass. It’s a good enough reason to spread the word about BAD cafe, which is still pretty much a Bandra secret.
Get: Fresa (Rs286); pina y coco (Rs340); mushroom upma (Rs223); gambas pil pil (Rs403); bunuelos de aire (Rs286); bon bon (Rs241).
Skip: Flan de queso (Rs286); Abuelita (Rs287).
It is our policy to wait at least a week after an establishment has opened before we review it.
Prices exclude taxes. This review was conducted anonymously.
Bad Cafe, Kapadia House, 22G New Kantwadi Road, off Perry Cross Road, in the lane opposite China Blue restaurant, Bandra (West). Open daily, from 9am to 11pm. Get directions here.